If you want to soak in hot springs without paying resort prices, El Choyin — also called Rio Chollín or the free hot springs of La Fortuna — is your best bet. This naturally heated river is open to the public 24/7, offering a rustic, wild experience compared to the commercial thermal spas. In this post, I’ll walk you through how to find it, what to expect, safety tips, and how to make the most of your visit.
What Is El Choyin / Rio Chollín?
El Choyin (Rio Chollín) is a natural hot river fed by geothermal water from the Arenal Volcano. Instead of pools, you’ll find a flowing river warmed naturally by underground volcanic activity. It’s essentially the same river that supplies resorts like Tabacón, but this section remains open to the public as a free soak zone.
Because it's not a resort, there are no facilities, lifeguards, or guaranteed infrastructure — just nature, rocks, steam, and warm water.
In recent years, a private “official” section, Choyin Rio Thermal, has been developed nearby — it offers parking, lockers, changing rooms, and a cafeteria. But note this is separate from the free stretch of the river.
Where Is El Choyin & How to Get There?
Location
El Choyin is located just off Route 142, about 12 km from La Fortuna. The river site lies right past the Tabacón entrance on the road out of town.
Hot to get there
- By car or taxi: Drive along Ruta 142 heading toward the volcano side. Watch for the bridge crossing Rio Chollín. Park along the street shoulder or in nearby spots.
- By bus: From the La Fortuna bus terminal, hop on a bus heading toward Tilarán and ask to be dropped at Rio Chollín / El Choyin. The ride takes about 30 minutes, and fares are very low (around $1 USD) — though schedules can be unreliable.
- Walking: The walk would take over 2 hours and is not recommended — much of the path is along the main road without proper sidewalks.
From Parking to the River
Once parked, you’ll see a small trail or path leading down toward the river. The route passes through a wire fence (intentionally left open) and leads you into the forest to reach the hot river.
You can also walk upstream in the river itself in places (wear shoes you don’t mind getting wet), though rockiness and slippery surfaces are present.
About 90 m upstream, there’s a more secluded, deeper stretch of river, though the trail can get muddy, especially in the rainy season.
When to Visit & Crowd Tips
- Open 24/7: Because it's a public river, you can technically soak anytime, day or night.
- Best time = early morning: Arriving before 8:00 AM gives you the best chance at quiet and privacy.
- Avoid weekends & afternoons: That’s when locals and tourists flock to the river. The crowds, loud music, and party vibes can detract from the peacefulness.
- Evenings: Can be atmospheric (people bring candles), but also more crowded. Use caution if you go after dark.
What to Bring (and What to Expect)
Item | Why It Helps |
Water shoes / sturdy sandals | The riverbed is rocky and slippery. |
Towel/change of clothes | No changing room available. |
Waterproof phone pouch / dry bag | To protect valuables from water or theft. |
Minimal valuables | There’s no official security; theft is possible. |
Flashlight or headlamp (if visiting at night) | Some paths are steep or rocky in lower light. |
Bug repellent & biodegradable soap | For comfort and environmental respect. |
Expect uneven terrain, tree cover, roots, mud (especially in the rainy season), and natural surroundings. The experience is rustic — not polished. Also, you’ll need to be careful with footing and be ready to climb rocks or walk small trails.
What’s the Water Temperature / Soaking Experience?
While exact temperatures fluctuate, visitors report the water feels warm to pleasantly hot — comparable to a natural thermal river, comfortably temperate for soaking.
Because it's a flowing river, there are zones where the water is slightly heated and others marginally cooler. You’ll want to find a spot that feels good for you and move if it gets too hot.
You can soak as long as you like, but many people take breaks between soaking sessions, especially if the water feels strong.
Safety & Cautions
- No lifeguards: Swim at your own risk.
- Slippery & sharp rocks: Move carefully; wear foot protection.
- Don’t leave valuables unattended: Theft does occur.
- “Parking guards/mafia”: Some people in high-visibility vests may offer to “watch your car” or direct you for a “parking fee.” These are not official, so if you give anything, do so cautiously.
- Watch for rising water: In the rainy season, flash floods or surges can make conditions dangerous. If you see the water turn brown, leave immediately.
Why Visit El Choyin?
- Free (truly): No entrance fee is required — the river is public.
- Natural & raw experience: Unlike resort hot springs, you’re immersed in the jungle, atmospheric, peaceful (especially early).
- Close to La Fortuna: It’s conveniently located along the route to many volcano and rainforest tours.
- Complement your itinerary: It makes a great low-cost add-on or alternative to commercial hot springs.
Sample Itineraries & Tips
- Morning soak + volcano hike: Visit El Choyin early, then head to Arenal Volcano trails refreshed.
- Sunset soak: Go in the early evening — peaceful, cooler, and atmospheric.
- Half-day detour: If your schedule allows (e.g., before or after hanging bridges or waterfalls), stop by El Choyin for an hour.
Conclusion
El Choyin, La Fortuna’s free hot springs (Rio Chollín), offers a raw, affordable, and natural alternative to the polished thermal resorts. With no entry fee, beautiful surroundings, and a river warmed by volcanic forces, it’s a must-do for travelers who prefer authenticity over amenities. That said, it demands flexibility, caution, and early timing to enjoy it truly.
Looking for a full overview of all hot springs in La Fortuna? Check out our guide: Best Hot Springs in La Fortuna.
Frequently asked questions
The most popular free hot springs in La Fortuna are called El Choyin (sometimes spelled “El Chollin”). They’re located just next to the entrance of Tabacón Thermal Resort on Route 142. You can park nearby, cross a small bridge, and walk down a short path to reach the warm river. It’s completely free and open to the public year-round.
If you’re looking for the cheapest hot springs in La Fortuna, El Choyin is the best choice since it’s 100% free. For low-cost paid options, Termales Los Laureles and Kalambu Hot Springs also offer affordable entrance fees starting around $10–$15 USD per person, ideal for families or budget travelers.
La Fortuna offers plenty of free things to do besides visiting El Choyin Hot Springs. You can walk around La Fortuna town, enjoy scenic views of Arenal Volcano, visit local parks, or look for sloths and tropical birds along quiet roads. The nearby El Salto Rope Swing is another fun and free natural swimming spot loved by locals.
A good rule of thumb is to soak for 15–30 minutes at a time. Since the water at El Choyin Hot Springs comes directly from geothermal sources, it’s important to stay hydrated and take short breaks to cool down between sessions. You can easily spend 1–2 relaxing hours at the river.
Wear a comfortable swimsuit at hot springs like El Choyin. Since it’s a natural river in the open, some visitors also bring water shoes to protect their feet from rocks. A towel and a change of clothes are handy too, especially if you plan to visit nearby restaurants afterward.
Many hotels in La Fortuna have their own private hot springs. Top choices include Tabacón Thermal Resort, The Springs Resort & Spa, Baldi Hot Springs Hotel, and Hotel Los Lagos. These resorts offer full facilities, restaurants, and beautiful landscaped pools heated by Arenal Volcano.
You can often see sloths for free just by walking around La Fortuna town or exploring roads near Arenal Volcano National Park. The area near Bogarin Trail and La Fortuna Sloth Trail is known for frequent sightings — even without paying an entrance fee, you might spot sloths hanging from trees along the roadside!
Yes! Monkeys are common in La Fortuna, especially in the forested areas around Arenal Volcano and along the river near El Choyin. You may see howler monkeys or white-faced capuchins in the trees, especially early in the morning or around sunset.
La Fortuna is generally safe at night, especially in the main town area. However, as with any tourist destination, use common sense: stick to well-lit streets, avoid leaving valuables in your car, and don’t walk alone to remote spots like El Choyin after dark.
No, La Fortuna Waterfall is not free. The entrance fee is $18 USD per person (children pay less), which helps support local conservation efforts. The trail is well maintained, and the 500-step descent leads to one of Costa Rica’s most stunning natural pools — definitely worth the visit!
