Hiking Cerro Chirripo through the Uran route inside Chirripo National Park was probably one of the most intense experiences of our lives.
It was beautiful. It was painful. It was humbling. And it pushed us far beyond our comfort zone.
If you’re deciding which version of the Cerro Chirripo hike to do, this honest experience about our hike to Cerro Chirripó via the Uran Route may help you choose wisely.
If you’re looking for a full overview of routes, permits, and preparation, start with our main guide here: Cerro Chirripó Hike Guide – Routes, Permits & Preparation
The Uran Route Overview
We chose the Herradura – Uran – Chirripó route:
- 4 days, 3 nights
- Entry through Herradura
- High difficulty
- Guide mandatory
- 6-month advance reservation required
This is not the classic trail inside Chirripo National Park. This is the wild route (but also the most beautiful!)
Day 1 - The registration
We arrived in San Gerardo on Monday, 9th February, before 3:30 PM for park registration and Base Crestones paperwork.
Then we made our way to the small mountain community of Herradura de Rivas, where a warm meal and a simple, cozy lodge were waiting for us. There’s something special about that first night before a big climb — the mix of nerves, excitement, and the quiet understanding that tomorrow will push you in ways you can’t quite predict.
Day 2 - The storm
Our alarm rang at 3:00 AM; it was time to get ready properly and have a coffee.
By 4:30 AM, the local transportation (included in the package) dropped us at “Pis Pis,” the trailhead where the real adventure begins.
The air was cool and heavy with mist, and the mountains were still wrapped in darkness as we started the 13.5 km hike toward the Paso de los Indios lodge.
The first few meters already set the mood; the climb starts now, and you have to be ready to climb, climb, climb.
Around 6:30 AM, just as we stopped for breakfast, the rain began. We sat, eating the breakfast burritos Félix had prepared for us, exactly what we needed. As the first drops turned into steady rain, we pulled out our “secret weapon”: thick garden trash bags we had bought the day before at the local pulpería. They may not have been glamorous, but they worked far better than a thin poncho. Layered over our windproof jackets, they became our improvised armor against the storm.
After breakfast, we crossed a small river, carefully stepping from rock to rock, determined to keep our shoes dry. It felt like a small victory at the time. But the mountain had other plans. The rain intensified, the trail turned into a muddy slide, and small waterfalls began to flow down sections of the path. Before long, dry shoes were no longer a realistic goal. We surrendered to it — laughing, slipping, helping each other through the thick mud.
By then, we were completely soaked, but something shifts when you accept the rain rather than fight it. The forest felt alive. It wasn’t just a hike anymore — it was an experience, the kind that bonds you to the mountain and to the people walking beside you.
Around 11:30 PM, we arrived at the "Paso de los Indios" lodge located at the top of the Talamanca mountain range and at the foot of Cerro Uran.
The albergue is extremely basic:
- Sleep on a mattress on the floor.
- Cold showers
- No toilet paper (best to know it before, right?).
- You will need to bring your own food and take your rubbish home.
We arrived soaked, cold, and tired. Our clothes never dried at the Paso de los Indios refuge. So it's best to be well-equipped and prepared. Our morale was low, but being disconnected from civilization in Chirripo National Park, it made us grateful.
We regained our strength, ate something, and played cards. You really appreciate simple comfort in those situations, and it reminds you of the comfort and luck you have every day.
Day 3 – Hiking the two summits
We woke up at 3:30 AM, but we had to wait until 5:30 AM for the storm to pass before we could begin the climb safely.
We climbed for several hours in the wind and rain before the sun appeared, a magnificent rainbow formed, and the clouds began to disperse. It's definitely one of my favorite souvenirs. I was so happy to see the sun after being soaked.
We took the opportunity to take off our rain jackets, recharge our batteries with some snacks, and enjoy the incredible view of the mountains (and our refuge, already far away).
We reached the top of Cerro Uran (3,660 m) at 8:30 AM.
We continued climbing for several hours in the sun, our clothes finally dried, and we were able to enjoy some sunshine (be careful, the sun is very, very strong; make sure you put on sunscreen and wear a hat). Esteban didn't, and his face was literally burned... But be prepared to take off and put on your jacket. At altitude, the weather changes so quickly: it's hot in the sun, then clouds roll in with the wind, then it's hot again.
Climbing this section was one of the most difficult parts, as reaching the summit of Cerro Chirripo (3,820m) several kilometers further on required the trail to climb and descend repeatedly.
The climb up Cerro Chirripo is incredible, and once you reach the top, the view is simply breathtaking. On clear days, you can see the Caribbean Sea on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other, making Chirripo truly exceptional.
We reached the summit at 12:07 PM, almost 3 and a half hours after the ascent of Cerro Uran.
We stayed at the top for about thirty minutes, time to enjoy the show and take some videos and photos, including drone footage of this incredible place (you can find all of this on our Instagram), before getting back on the road to the Albergue Base Crestones refuge, 7km further on.
Once we arrived at the Albergue, we took the opportunity to change, wash up at the sink, and use wipes like babies (sorry, but a cold shower wasn't an option in this freezing weather). We reconnected with civilization, enjoyed an empanada and coffee at 4 PM, then had dinner at 6 PM, and went to bed at 8 PM. (Yes, we were way too exhausted.)
Day 4 - The Descent: the Hardest Part
The next day, Thursday, 12th March, we woke up at 5:30 AM to enjoy breakfast, repacked our bags, and set off for the descent. We left the hostel at 7:00 AM, determined to finish the last 14.5 km of the descent.
We took a short break at Tienda Naturaleza, located at km 7, ate a "tortilla alineada con queso" (very good!) with a coffee, took a pee break, and then set off again for the last 7 km, which were the most unbearable.
Nobody warned us how painful this descent would be. Rocks. Impact. Knee strain. Nonstop downhill.
Even with knee braces, Aurélise was in so much pain. If you’re planning the Cerro Chirripo hike, train your knees. Strengthen quads. Prepare mentally. Aurélise was not ready for so much pain. We thought she was in good physical shape, going to CrossFit 4 times a week, but apparently, her knees disagreed...
Esteban carried her backpack for the last 3 kilometers to avoid putting any more weight on her poor little knees; She was in absolute agony.
We reached the end of the trail at 12:15 PM and headed to the Uran Hotel to meet up with our fellow travelers. We had time to relax, enjoy a cold Imperial, and reflect on the past three days and the incredible journey we'd undertaken.
An hour and a half later, our companions arrived. The driver took us back to Herradura de Rivas, where we met Felix's parents for a delicious casado before hitting the road again for home to Quepos.
Our Group & Guide Experience
We were grateful to hike with an amazing group of Ticos:
- Angelica, Torro & Tigre (If you were to meet him, you would understand his nickname.)
- Pablo & Lindsey (5 times!)
- Jesus (27 times!)
We all supported and encouraged one another during these few days, were kind to one another, shared difficult moments, and, above all, showed solidarity.
We didn't have Felix, the original guide we booked everything with, but his sister, Yerlin. She's a very kind woman who has been doing this hike for years, but she didn't really have the personality of a coach, which would have been a great help when our morale was at its lowest between Tuesday night and Ascension Day on Wednesday.
We would have appreciated a bit more motivation from her, and especially some reassurance. But perhaps it's a question of culture, or of that "pura vida" which sometimes teaches you that nothing in life is serious, and that you have to take everything lightly (which we had trouble appreciating when we were soaked and cold, to be honest).
Overall, we were happy to have this experience with this family and truly grateful to have been welcomed by them.
What would we do differently?
If we were to do Chirripo again (although it's not at all in our plans, the descent was far too difficult for my knees), we would take the classic San Gerardo route and spend one night at Base Crestones.
We are sure that our experience would have been different if we hadn't been soaked by the rain on the first day. The Uran route is stunning. But it’s intense, you need to be ready and well-equipped.
Uran Route Packing List
You're in the mountains, so be ready for a sudden change in weather. Inside Chirripo National Park, you may experience freezing temperatures, intense sun, heavy rain, and strong winds — sometimes within hours. Make sure you're properly equipped for this version of the Chirripó Ascent. This list is non-negotiable; if you don't bring these things, you'll regret it.
Clothing
- Moisture-wicking base layers;
- Waterproof rain jacket ;
- Fleece jacket/insulated mid-layer;
- Thermal underwear;
- Lightweight waterproof jacket;
- Quick-dry hiking pants;
- Hat/cap;
- Gloves;
- Warm beanir or hat; Sunglasses
Footwear
- Sturdy hiking boots;
- Hiking socks (multiple pairs); a very thick pair of wool for the night - make sure that it stays completely dry
- Camp shoes or sandals
Gear
- Backpack (30-40 liters) and Waterproof backpack cover ;
- Hydration system (water bladder or water bottles);
- Trekking poles (not necessary - as preferred;
- Headlamp fully charged.
- Sunblock (SPF 30 or higher) and Lip balm with SPF
- First aid kit;
- Portable charger;
- Lightweight sleeping bag linen (optional)
- Dry bags or plastic ziplock bags: You will need to pack your clothes in these bags and keep your chargers/electronic devices safe.
- Quick-dry towel;
- Camera or phone (in a waterproof case)
- Knees bracelets
Food & Hydration
- Electrolyte tablets/powder;
- High-energy snacks;
- Meals (if not purchasing food at the refuge)
Additional Items
- Personal identification and park permits;
- Cash;
- Towel and toiletries;
- Lightweight camping pillow (optional)
- Wipes (the showers are freezing) & tissues
Extra Precautions
- Extra layers and spare clothing;
- Checking frequent weather updates
Cerro Chirripo via the Uran Route: Final Thoughts
A Cerro Chirripo hike via the Uran route is not just a hike. It’s a test. Physically. Mentally. Emotionally.
It disconnects you from comfort and reconnects you with nature.
Would we recommend it? Yes.
Would we warn you to prepare? Absolutely.
We really want to thank Felix for organizing this trip and for introducing us to this incredibly kind group of Ticos. This hike also reminded us how friendly, down-to-earth, and genuine Costa Ricans are.
Pura Vida comes first, and that's undoubtedly the most valuable lesson we learned on this trek.
Nature has so much to offer (sun and rain included), but we must always be grateful. It always gives us something.
It's up to you to find the beauty in what surrounds you.
